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The Party-Season Trouser Suit: How to Make Tailoring Look Like an Occasion

Clara Ventura5 min read
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The Party-Season Trouser Suit: How to Make Tailoring Look Like an Occasion — Fashion

The fit details that separate party from Monday morning

Three things decide whether a suit looks expensive. First, the shoulder seam. It should sit roughly where your own shoulder ends; if it droops down your arm, the whole jacket slides forward and no amount of styling rescues it. This is the one measurement worth being fussy about, because it is the hardest to alter.

Second, the trouser length. Evening tailoring wants length — the hem should skim the top of the shoe and break softly, not hover above the ankle. If you are wearing a heel, buy or hem the trousers for that heel and accept that they will pool slightly in flats. A long line through the leg is what makes a suit look like an outfit rather than separates.

Third, the waistband and the closure. A jacket worn open over a wide trouser can look shapeless in photographs. Either fasten the single button and let the jacket do the waist-defining, or wear something fitted underneath so there is a visible shape somewhere. Belting a long jacket over a trouser is also having a moment and works particularly well if the suit is a size generous.

What goes underneath, and on your feet

The easiest answer is a silk or satin camisole in a colour that is not quite matching — oyster with chocolate, pale gold with green, dove grey with black. A fine-gauge knit in merino or cashmere, tucked, is the warm option and looks quietly rich. A crisp tuxedo-style shirt with the collar left open does the old-fashioned glamour thing properly. A bodysuit solves the untucking problem entirely.

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