As a little girl, I used to flip through glossy magazines and stop cold whenever I saw it: a fairytale lakeshore ringed by elegant villas, lush gardens and dramatic mountains. That was Lake Como. Back then it mostly appeared in the press because George Clooney owns a famous residence there, the Villa Oleandra. I didn't know much more than that — but one thing felt certain: this place was completely out of my reach.
For years, Lake Como was practically a synonym for luxury in my mind. Elegant hotels, film stars, exclusive villas, dream vacations. It honestly never occurred to me that I might one day spend a few days there myself.
Then I grew up. We traveled to more and more corners of Italy, and earlier this year I felt the moment had finally come to make this old dream come true.
I wouldn't recommend it as your first Italian road trip
If someone is driving in Italy for the very first time, I'd probably point them toward Trieste or the Lake Garda area instead. Those destinations feel easier to explore as a "beginner," while still giving you a real taste of that Italian way of life.
Lake Como comes into its own once you've built up a little confidence behind the wheel in Italy. The roads around the lake are often narrow and winding, the village streets are tight, and parking isn't always straightforward — so driving here takes extra attention.
We noticed a striking number of scratched and dented cars, and we saw plenty of moments where drivers were either careless or a bit too assertive. It never felt outright dangerous, but you do need to stay focused, especially on the narrow stretches and in busy towns.
None of this has to spoil the experience — it's just worth knowing in advance. If you arrive prepared and don't panic when you have to squeeze past an oncoming car with inches to spare, Lake Como can easily become one of your most memorable Italian trips.
Careful planning made all the difference
For our late-June trip, I booked our accommodation back in January. We set a budget we wanted to stick to and started searching with that in mind.
It helped enormously to use a booking site with a map view that showed exactly which towns had which price ranges. That made it much easier to find a place that fit both our budget and the location we wanted.
We spent five nights in the town of Como, in a fully equipped, air-conditioned apartment. One night cost roughly $120 for the two of us. There was a washing machine, a kitchen, everything we needed — which was especially welcome, since we'd just spent five nights in the gorgeous Cinque Terre.
Honestly, I was a little surprised that you can find genuinely reasonable prices around Lake Como. If you book early and are willing to dig a bit, there are some really good options out there.
The town of Como turned out to be the perfect base
Our apartment sat on the edge of the old town, which was a huge advantage. Every evening we strolled comfortably into the center, wandered the charming streets, grabbed gelato, had a glass of wine or sat down for dinner.
There was one downside: cars aren't allowed into that part of town, so we left ours in a nearby guarded parking garage. Over five days, that wasn't cheap. And yet I didn't mind at all.
Unfortunately, it's not just a rumor that car break-ins happen in parts of Italy. We've seen broken-into cars more than once, and we personally know someone whose car was broken into in broad daylight, in a busy city, in an unguarded lot. That's exactly why safety is something I'm not willing to compromise on. The garage was a noticeable extra cost, but in return I felt relaxed for the entire trip.
Eating smart is entirely possible
Como is big enough to have every shop you might need. As soon as we arrived, we did a grocery run: fresh fruit, breakfast items, Italian pasta, sauce and plenty of great ingredients. That way we didn't have to eat out for every meal, yet we still got to enjoy those Italian flavors.
We did go to restaurants too, but I didn't leave that to chance either. As someone with gluten and dairy intolerances, I always research where I can eat safely before a trip. Italy proved itself once again on this front. Almost everywhere understood gluten intolerance well, and several places even offered gluten-free pasta and pizza.
One of my favorite dinners was a shrimp and pesto spaghetti, and we almost always ended the day with a scoop or two of homemade gelato. Como even has a few fully gluten-free gelato shops, which was a real relief.
And since I was already checking for allergen options, I'd glance at each restaurant's reviews and get a sense of the prices too. That helped us dodge the classic "tourist trap" spots.
Bellagio, Varenna and a spontaneous swim
Before we left, I already knew I absolutely wanted to see Bellagio and Varenna.
We drove to Bellagio, but instead of parking right in the center, we left the car a bit farther out where the rates were far more reasonable. From there we walked into town and then visited the beautiful gardens of Villa Melzi.
After that we took the ferry across to Varenna. The gardens of Villa Cipressi simply took my breath away. The Mediterranean plants, the terraces stretching out over the lake, the whole atmosphere of the place — it was one of the highlights of the trip.
And yet my dearest memory came from a completely spontaneous moment. Along a pretty stretch of stepped shoreline, we suddenly wandered down to the water and went for a swim. In the summer heat, that impromptu dip turned out to be a brilliant idea — and we clearly inspired a few other tourists too. After a bit of asking around, they jumped in as well.
Nesso is worth a detour
We also visited Nesso, where we saw the famous Orrido di Nesso. The gorge, the old stone bridge and the turquoise water looked exactly like the photos that first drew me in. Many people were jumping into the water there; we preferred to soak up the unique atmosphere and take a stroll through the village.
On top of that, we found free parking here — another pleasant surprise.
A little planning goes a long way
Before nearly every activity, I looked into how best to buy tickets, where we could save and what other travelers had experienced. I watched videos, read reviews, and did exactly the same when choosing restaurants — partly just to avoid the tourist traps and make sure we ended up in places that actually delivered a great experience.
Looking back, those few hours of planning saved us a lot of money, time and frustration.
Lake Como is far more accessible than it first appears
On the drive home, I kept thinking how strange it was that as a child I saw this part of Italy as completely unreachable. Today I feel that Lake Como can absolutely be a luxury destination — but it's by no means only that.
If you book your accommodation early, plan your activities thoughtfully, choose restaurants wisely and cover at least a few meals from your own kitchen, then you really don't need to spend a fortune to feel wonderful in this remarkable place.
What I'd tell anyone visiting Lake Como for the first time
- Book early! If you're going in summer, start searching in January or February — that's when there's still more choice and often better prices.
- Don't just look at the luxury hotels! Como and the surrounding towns have excellent value-for-money apartments.
- Plan your activities in advance! It's worth checking ferry schedules, parking and entry tickets.
- Read restaurant reviews! A few minutes of searching can help you avoid the tourist traps.
- If you have food intolerances, don't worry! As someone with gluten and dairy intolerances, Italy charmed me all over again — I found safe and delicious food everywhere.
- Leave room for spontaneity too! Some of my most beautiful memories were moments we never planned at all. Sometimes those are exactly what make a trip unforgettable.
Is Lake Como expensive to visit?
It can be a luxury destination, but it doesn't have to be. With early booking, thoughtful planning and a few self-catered meals, you can enjoy Lake Como without spending a fortune.
Is Lake Como good for a first-time Italian road trip?
Not necessarily. The roads are narrow and winding, streets are tight and parking can be tricky. If it's your first time driving in Italy, Trieste or Lake Garda may be easier places to start.
Which towns around Lake Como are worth visiting?
Bellagio and Varenna are must-sees, with beautiful villa gardens like Villa Melzi and Villa Cipressi. Nesso is also worth a detour for its gorge, stone bridge and turquoise water.
Can you eat safely at Lake Como with gluten or dairy intolerance?
Yes. Italy handled these needs impressively — gluten intolerance was well understood almost everywhere, with gluten-free pasta, pizza and even fully gluten-free gelato shops in Como.
